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A Sit Down With Our Biochemist

21.09.21

Sometimes it is good to know the science behind the products, here we sit down with Beaut’s biochemist who answers some of our more frequently asked questions. 

What is unique about the Beaut formulations?  

Beaut products are formulated with results in mind. The formulations are streamlined to contain only the absolutely necessary ingredient. Thought and care went into the selection of every ingredient. Formulations were tested, reviewed and re-reviewed to ensure the desired results are obtained.  What’s not to love about consciously created, transparent, well researched Beauts.  

What goes into sourcing clean, vegan friendly, ethically sourced ingredients? 

Sourcing clean ingredients means checking every step in the supply chain. Verifying origin of raw materials used in the manufacture of ingredients, possible by products created by the processes as well as the impact on communities supplying the raw materials.  

The body of scientific knowledge which investigates the effects of chemicals on the body is continuously growing. As a result, new information is constantly coming to light that helps us better understand how to create safer, cleaner, and more conscious products. 

Every care was taken to select ingredients of natural or clean origin without compromising final, visible results.  

Miron glass, how does it help increase shelf life and maintain the efficacy of a product?  

Glass is the ideal vehicle for any conscious skin care product. It is completely inert, thus not affecting the contents and is environmentally friendly. 

Miron glass is at the cutting edge of packaging technology for clean beauty. The violet glass is specifically designed to block the harmful rays that can damage active ingredients. But the true marvel is the selective permeation of light rays. Specific UV light rays and Infrared light is allowed to pass through the violet wall. These rays can boost preservative action within products to prevent spoilage thus reducing the amount of preservatives needed and extending the shelf-life.  

The careful selection of packaging to promote product integrity is one of the truest characteristics of conscious, clean beauty brands.  

Vitamin C, talk us through the difference between L-ascorbic acid and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.  

Vitamin C is a truly marvellous skin vitamin. Vitamin C comes in various forms, chemically speaking. The most well known is probably L-Ascorbic Acid. It is water-soluble and possesses high antioxidant activity. The problem is, the moment it is dissolved in water, the ascorbic acid starts to degrade. Meaning products formulated with ascorbic acid, in a water base, probably has little to no activity left by the time it is purchased. 

Enter Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. It is a stabilised, water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is converted to Ascorbic Acid once it makes contact with the skin. As ascorbic acid, it is an antioxidant and free radical scavenger. Studies have shown it to reduce the appearance of blemishes and acne as well as stimulating the production of collagen to improve skin firmness.   

Let’s talk about Bakuchiol. Why is it better than retinol? 

Vitamin A or Retinol is a critical vitamin to preserve skin integrity. It serves both as a powerful anti-aging and anti-acne active due to various functions. The use of retinol has various drawbacks. Firstly, it is unstable in formulations and sensitive to light and air. Even when stabilised it will break down over time in formulations. Meaning no benefit will be gained and possible skin reactions can occur. Vitamin A can also cause skin irritation if not used correctly. It further is not safe to use during the day or when pregnant. 

Bakuchiol is one of the most exciting new ingredients to enter the market in the last few years. It is a plant extract and natural alternative to Vitamin A. Numerous scientific studies have shown, biochemically, bakuchiol has the same effect in cells as retinol. Coupled with superior stability Bakuchiol is safe to use during the day and during pregnancy as it does not contain any retinol derivatives.  

The benefits of the ingredient are numerous. It has been clinically proven to reduce multiple signs of aging, including reduction of skin roughness, dryness and fine lines and wrinkles, increases skin elasticity and tone and improves skin brightness. Studies have also reported strong anti-acne activity.  

Tell us about the different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, why is it good to have a combination of different forms in a single product?  

HA is a natural component of healthy skin and tends to decrease with age. A lack of HA leads to weakening of the skin allowing wrinkle formation. Once applied to the skin, it is gradually reabsorbed by the body. It helps preserve hydration and shape of skin cells. 

Bacterial technology (or biotechnology) makes it possible to obtain high purity HA of non-animal origin. It is also possible to obtain various molecular weights, aka the size of the molecule. 

HA of high molecular weight does not penetrate into the skin. Instead it resides on top of the skin, where it forms a protective barrier. It reduces the amount of water being lost by evaporation and counteracts dehydration. It can also protect against environmental aggressors such as pollution. In the high molecular weight form the molecule may also help calm skin inflammation. Seeing as the laye resides on top of the skin it is removed with cleansing, thus the need to reapply daily.  

The low molecular weight counterpart of HA can penetrate the deeper layers of the skin. When penetrating the skin HA can help stimulate cellular metabolism and increase cellular proliferation. As it is trapped between skin cells it also binds water to help plump and hydrate the skin. The smaller molecule is able to bring about long-term improvement of the skin’s appearance. 

What makes Power Potion such a good exfoliant for daily use? 

The Power Potion combines various ingredients to bring about gentle exfoliation. The normal process of skin shedding can be retarded by age, sun damage and skin conditions. The benefit of exfoliating your skin, irrelevant of skin type and age, is that it can stimulate the deeper layers to increase production of new skin cells. By increasing cellular turnover it is possible to reduce pigmentation, acne, and blemishes.  

Mandelic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid. It is double the size of glycolic acid, making it gentler. Seeing as it does not penetrate as deep as glycolic acid, it is more suitable for daily use. It has been shown to be effective against acne marks, and UV-induced pigmentation.  

A bacillus ferment derivative is included to provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation. It can break down the cement holding dead skin cells together. Removal of the old, dead cells reveals the younger, more radiant cells below. It can reduce the dull and “ashy” appearance of skin.  

Lactic acid, as the above ingredients, loosen the top layers of dead skin cells. It further can improve skin moisturisation. Studies have found that lactic acid can stimulate the production of ceramides in skin cells, leading to improved barrier function. Lactic acid can be beneficial to the skin friendly microbiota, helping them thrive and suppress potential pathogenic organisms.  

If you were a Beaut, which would you be and why?  

Why pick only one!? Considering the ingredients in the individual Beauts it is rather taxing to choose just a single Beaut. I’d have to go with Wrinkle Shminkle as the all-rounder that packs a punch. From reducing inflammation (MAIN cause of premature skin aging) to combating breakouts and improving skin structure it really caters for most any issue. That being said, I would want my partner in crime to be Face Juice. Moisturisation is the absolute first step to a healthy, balanced skin and probably half the battle won. It contains ingredients that further soothe and protect against environmental aggressors such as pollution. This makes the couple an anti-aging powerhouse and a generally good-looking partnership! 

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